Strong fingers are the foundation of hard climbing — but they’re also the easiest thing to injure. Train them patiently and they’ll carry you for decades.
Start with the hang
Before any hangboard work, build a base with months of regular climbing. Tendons adapt slower than muscles, so progress conservatively.
A simple weekly plan
- 2 short hangboard sessions per week, never back-to-back
- 7-second hangs on an edge you can hold for 12+ seconds
- Full rest days between finger-intensive sessions
- Stop immediately at any sharp joint pain
Recovery is training
Sleep, protein and rest days are where adaptation actually happens. Our coaches can build a personalized progression plan during a private session.